Atomization of clear with lph80 vs lph300 1.2

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Atomization of clear with lph80 vs lph300 1.2

Postby smokedlights » Thu Jan 24, 2019 7:44 pm

Hello. I have both lph80, as well as a lph300 brand new sitting on shelf for about a year. Both are 1.2 tips. Im only spraying tail light lenses, however Im doing large batches of them 15pieces at a time etc. I currently use the lph80 without much issue but was wondering which would get the finest atomization overall? I was having an issue with some tiny craters in my finishes, I had the LPh80 turned up to around 25+psi while usually painting very close to surface 2-3'' I'm wondering if I was somehow shooting air into the surface/too close etc? Ive turned it down to around 18ish now and find it harder to lay as flat as I like it.. Im use to spraying glass. I thought about just a touch of reducer in my clear to get it to lay down better with the lower air pressure, Also wondering if the lph300 would be better at getting the paint on any flatter or suit my style anymore? Overall finish is my #1 priority, not hung up on TE or saving material etc..
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Re: Atomization of clear with lph80 vs lph300 1.2

Postby Hub » Thu Jan 31, 2019 3:41 am

smokedlights wrote:Hello. I have both lph80, as well as a lph300 brand new sitting on shelf for about a year. Both are 1.2 tips. Im only spraying tail light lenses, however Im doing large batches of them 15pieces at a time etc. I currently use the lph80 without much issue but was wondering which would get the finest atomization overall? I was having an issue with some tiny craters in my finishes, I had the LPh80 turned up to around 25+psi while usually painting very close to surface 2-3'' I'm wondering if I was somehow shooting air into the surface/too close etc? Ive turned it down to around 18ish now and find it harder to lay as flat as I like it.. Im use to spraying glass. I thought about just a touch of reducer in my clear to get it to lay down better with the lower air pressure, Also wondering if the lph300 would be better at getting the paint on any flatter or suit my style anymore? Overall finish is my #1 priority, not hung up on TE or saving material etc..

[size=200][b][size=150][size=150]Hi smokedlights thank you for your question A 10% more reduction should give a finer finish and my even help eliminate the craters & allow you to spray at a lower atomizing air pressure. The craters my be silicone fish eye to identify that it helps to have a 4 or greater power magnifying glass if the crater void of paint that would indicate silicone.
BIG question what air cap do you have on the lph 80
Regards
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Re: Atomization of clear with lph80 vs lph300 1.2

Postby smokedlights » Thu Jan 31, 2019 6:23 pm

Thanks for reply.. they are def not contamination as they dont appear for 5-10 min after, never appear on first coats and will easily cover with more paint.. Anyway given the same paint viscosity, will an lph80 or lph300 atomize better? in the Lph80 I have only the best ;) e4 1.2 Also what if I got a 1.0 cap? Right now Im spraying the lph80 at 18psi, 2 complete turns out on material. Just a capful of reducer per about 18oz or so. (its already a pretty thin clear)

For the smaller/curvy lenses it works great. I struggle on the bigger flatter lenses.. I move incredibly slow and often have to put 2 back to back coats to get it fully wet and flat. I understand I have some room on the material knob but have had very good luck with 0 craters the last 2 times I have sprayed with reduction in material knob, so just trying to find a happy medium of a very thin, but slick coat
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Re: Atomization of clear with lph80 vs lph300 1.2

Postby Hub » Fri Feb 01, 2019 7:52 am

smokedlights wrote:Thanks for reply.. they are def not contamination as they dont appear for 5-10 min after, never appear on first coats and will easily cover with more paint.. Anyway given the same paint viscosity, will an lph80 or lph300 atomize better? in the Lph80 I have only the best ;) e4 1.2 Also what if I got a 1.0 cap? Right now Im spraying the lph80 at 18psi, 2 complete turns out on material. Just a capful of reducer per about 18oz or so. (its already a pretty thin clear)

For the smaller/curvy lenses it works great. I struggle on the bigger flatter lenses.. I move incredibly slow and often have to put 2 back to back coats to get it fully wet and flat. I understand I have some room on the material knob but have had very good luck with 0 craters the last 2 times I have sprayed with reduction in material knob, so just trying to find a happy medium of a very thin, but slick coat


Okay Smoked sounds like you are on the right tract with the E4 and the i.2 FT I do have a couple a more questions So if its okay please post your Phone number and the best time to call and I will.
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Re: Atomization of clear with lph80 vs lph300 1.2

Postby smokedlights » Sat Feb 02, 2019 12:34 am

perfect I could use all the help I can get with this crater problem as well.. 7607998720 call anytime
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Re: Atomization of clear with lph80 vs lph300 1.2

Postby Hub » Sat Feb 02, 2019 6:58 am

smokedlights wrote:perfect I could use all the help I can get with this crater problem as well.. 7607998720 call anytime


Okay smokedlight I'll give you a call mid morning tomorrow Cheers 8) HUB
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Re: Atomization of clear with lph80 vs lph300 1.2

Postby smokedlights » Sat Feb 02, 2019 3:08 pm

sounds great do you have an email I can send you a pic of my issue so you can put eyes on it before speaking? if you email me I will reply with pix
smokedlights@aol.com
thanks!
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Re: Atomization of clear with lph80 vs lph300 1.2

Postby Hub » Mon Feb 04, 2019 10:51 pm

smokedlights wrote:sounds great do you have an email I can send you a pic of my issue so you can put eyes on it before speaking? if you email me I will reply with pix
smokedlights@aol.com
thanks!

Good thinking @ chck your E MAIL
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