iwata spraygun regulator

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iwata spraygun regulator

Postby painter john » Mon Mar 15, 2010 9:41 pm

I have 2 iwata regulators on my sprayguns ,the ones that you just turn thr dial and it restricts the pressure flow,I dont know a code for them.
THe differance is if you put the gauges on the same gun and set to 2 bar the gun is not putting the pressure out the same with both regulators.I dont know which is a proper 2 bar or why these regulators do this.Its funny as where I used to work they had the exact same problem,2 regs one putting out higher pressure than the other.anyone any ideas??
Cheers P.J
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Postby jcclark » Mon Mar 15, 2010 10:15 pm

Make sure you have a lot higher psi feeding them.
Most air fittings restrict the flow on high cfm guns like HVLP.
You have to run higher pressure through the hose to compensate
for them, or use bigger fittings.
Try running 90 psi to the regulator and see if that makes a difference,
if not. then it's the regulator.
I hook a pressure gage to my gun with a quick disconnect on a tee
fitting, after adjusting at the wall till I get the right psi at the gun
I disconnect the gage.
I use it on all my guns, it's always the same and much more accurate.
I personnaly hate the gages at the gun, most are low quality and
restrict flow.
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Re: iwata spraygun regulator

Postby Hub » Fri Mar 19, 2010 6:22 am

painter john wrote:I have 2 iwata regulators on my sprayguns ,the ones that you just turn thr dial and it restricts the pressure flow,I dont know a code for them.
THe differance is if you put the gauges on the same gun and set to 2 bar the gun is not putting the pressure out the same with both regulators.I dont know which is a proper 2 bar or why these regulators do this.Its funny as where I used to work they had the exact same problem,2 regs one putting out higher pressure than the other.anyone any ideas??
Cheers P.J


Hey PJ,
Make sure the controls on the Air Spreader valve, built in valve and the material control valve are all in the wide open position and the trigger is in the full back position on both guns when you test.
Anest Iwata has a piston type mini air regulator that works great, you might want a look see. PN 8131 (AK-1R) NO worries about pinning this one it will stand a jolt up to 250 PSI without damage.

Oh one last thought - has either of the air valves been pined :?:
Cheers,
"HUB" :)
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Postby painter john » Fri Mar 19, 2010 9:54 pm

The valves are fully open, but the issue is if i take one reg off a gun and put the other reg on the same gun without changing a thing the pressure is significantly differant.
The piston type sounds interesting for some reason the turn type doesnt seem reliable.What do you mean by pinning Hub?
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HUB COMMENT

Postby Hub » Sat Mar 20, 2010 6:33 am

Hey PJ,
I wouldn't put a great deal of trust in the accuracy of those small gages - sometimes they can have a give or take swing of 3 to 6 PSI.
Most of those gages measure pressure by spring tension and one big surge of high pressure will bend or weaken the spring rendering them inacurrate. Pinned is when high pressure forces the indicater needle past its normal range.
The gun itself may be the cause - try this, turn in the air spreader valve then test the pressure - the gage should read higher.
Cheers,
"HUB" :)
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Postby painter john » Sun Mar 21, 2010 7:51 am

Thanks for that J.C and Hub,what type of guage would you recommend??My local supplier has the sata micrometer ,are they a more accurate set up?
I think I'll just replace all my gauges ,who's to say if any of them are accurate.
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HUB COMMENT

Postby Hub » Sun Mar 21, 2010 9:51 pm

painter john wrote:Thanks for that J.C and Hub,what type of guage would you recommend??My local supplier has the sata micrometer ,are they a more accurate set up?
I think I'll just replace all my gauges ,who's to say if any of them are accurate.


That other brand you mentioned - well, no!
Gages with smaller limits - say like 4 bars or 60 psi are most accurate.

OR YOU CAN DO WHAT I DO ---PINCH THE HOSE----LOL
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Re: HUB COMMENT

Postby painter john » Mon Mar 22, 2010 9:35 am

OR YOU CAN DO WHAT I DO ---PINCH THE HOSE----LOL[/quote]
You Yanks,you've got all the technology :lol:
I suppose exact pressure accuracy isnt as important with the non hvlp guns that i use,wbx and w400lv2 anything from 2-2.5 bar is ok, its up to what the users likes for the pressure from the gun never mind what the guage says
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Re: HUB COMMENT

Postby Hub » Tue Mar 23, 2010 6:28 am

painter john wrote:OR YOU CAN DO WHAT I DO ---PINCH THE HOSE----LOL

You Yanks,you've got all the technology :lol:
I suppose exact pressure accuracy isnt as important with the non hvlp guns that i use,wbx and w400lv2 anything from 2-2.5 bar is ok, its up to what the users likes for the pressure from the gun never mind what the guage says[/quote]

You are correct - if you don't have to worry about the restriction of 10 PSI at the cap - you can play it by ear - what ever sounds right or where it sprays the best. As long as you can see the car through the overspray - just go for it. :roll: :roll: :roll: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Postby painter john » Wed Mar 24, 2010 12:15 am

although i'm not in a position to buy a new hvlp super nova i sure would like to try an lph conversion in all the 3 caps just for the fun of it, and see if they really are as low overspray as you say. I take it with just a cap conversin to the lv4 (non hvlp) my wbx will be converted to your w400 compliant gun.In your opinion ,baring in mind you dont have the wbx, would it be a step up ,down or much the same for a clear coat gun as the wbx.(the wbx has a slight factory peel finish in my opinion) wouldnt mind a real smooth slick finish gun.
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HUB COMMENT

Postby Hub » Wed Mar 24, 2010 4:44 am

painter john wrote:although i'm not in a position to buy a new hvlp super nova i sure would like to try an lph conversion in all the 3 caps just for the fun of it, and see if they really are as low overspray as you say. I take it with just a cap conversin to the lv4 (non hvlp) my wbx will be converted to your w400 compliant gun.In your opinion ,baring in mind you dont have the wbx, would it be a step up ,down or much the same for a clear coat gun as the wbx.(the wbx has a slight factory peel finish in my opinion) wouldnt mind a real smooth slick finish gun.

PJ,
You can convert your WBX to an LPH with an air cap and a fluid nozzle.

The WBX and the W400LV are similar, so not much to gain there.
The nice thing about the LPH400LV you have a three cap interchange, two for color and one for clear.
Cheers,
"HUB" :)
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Postby go-rebels » Mon Sep 27, 2010 4:23 pm

I've got a question related to the pressure system I'm working with at a friend's house who has a kit airplane which I am now painting. He's got a 30 gallon upright compressor running to a copper air circuit, with a bunch of quick disconnects between the compressor and copper circuit, then to 25' hose. I'm running a 1.8mm tipped Air Gunsa at ~30 psi with an Iwata regulator permanently fixed under the gun. To get 30psi at the regulator under flow, I need to set the regulator wide open and have the regulator out of the compressor set at 100 psi (near max; regulator behind the copper circuit and 25' hose). When I stop the airflow through the gun, the pressure behind the regulator on the gun jumps to 100psi. Then when I pull the trigger, I sense a surge of air through the gun until the regulator 'catches up'.

Am I imagining the surge through the gun or is the regulator really doing its job? The paint flow at startup does not appear to be 'out of control' but the sound is certainly different.
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HUB COMMENT

Postby Hub » Tue Sep 28, 2010 6:51 am

go-rebels wrote:I've got a question related to the pressure system I'm working with at a friend's house who has a kit airplane which I am now painting. He's got a 30 gallon upright compressor running to a copper air circuit, with a bunch of quick disconnects between the compressor and copper circuit, then to 25' hose. I'm running a 1.8mm tipped Air Gunsa at ~30 psi with an Iwata regulator permanently fixed under the gun. To get 30psi at the regulator under flow, I need to set the regulator wide open and have the regulator out of the compressor set at 100 psi (near max; regulator behind the copper circuit and 25' hose). When I stop the airflow through the gun, the pressure behind the regulator on the gun jumps to 100psi. Then when I pull the trigger, I sense a surge of air through the gun until the regulator 'catches up'.

Am I imagining the surge through the gun or is the regulator really doing its job? The paint flow at startup does not appear to be 'out of control' but the sound is certainly different.


What you see and hear is normal for all restrictive type air valves. True compressed air regulator won't do that. Whats happening now is when you stop the air flow the pressure builds to the pressure at the source and for a second or two yu are pulling against that 100 pounds - not good and I have bilaterial corproal tunnel scars to prove it. If you want to control the air pressure at the gun and you prefer not to have the surge buy yourself a true regulator - either diaphragm or piston type (Anest Iwatas AK-1R is a good choice.
Cheers,
"HUB" :)
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Postby go-rebels » Wed Sep 29, 2010 12:05 pm

Thanks Hub,

Where would I place the AK-1R, just outside the tank or under the gun?

If outside the tank, would I position it after the normal tank regulator? Will I still be able to get 30psi at the gun using that setup?

Or would I switch-out the factory 'Kobalt' regulator for the AK-1R?
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HUB ANSWER

Postby Hub » Wed Sep 29, 2010 1:59 pm

go-rebels wrote:Thanks Hub,

Where would I place the AK-1R, just outside the tank or under the gun?

If outside the tank, would I position it after the normal tank regulator? Will I still be able to get 30psi at the gun using that setup?

Or would I switch-out the factory 'Kobalt' regulator for the AK-1R?


The AK-1R should be attached to the gun handle air inlet.
Cheers,
"HUB" :)
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